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As
Seen In Better Homes & Gardens
Finishing
School
Feature from Better Homes &
Gardens, Do It Yourself Special
Interest Publication, Fall '95
Better Home and Gardens takes
a look at some of the easiest and
most popular styles of faux finishing
and provides a step
by step guide
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Back
to School!
School
bells are ringing and the kids are packing their backpacks.
Aren't you just itching to learn something new as well? Nothing
could be easier or more fun than these six
painting techniques taught by faux-finish painting pros
Greg Frohnapfel and John Catalanotto of Akron. Best yet, you
use only water base materials to create fantastic finishes
including malachite,
drift marble,
crackle finish,
elephant hide,
and copper patina.
Faux
to the Finish.
These six painted finishes divide into two basic techniques;
positive and negative glazing. In positive glazing, you use
a tool such as a sponge to apply the glazing mixture. For
negative glazing, you use a tool such as a comb to remove
the glazing mixture. Keep in mind it's best to try faux-painting
techniques on a sample board. To make a sample board, apply
a 1-inch strip of quick release painters tape to the edges
of poster board. Prime and paint.
The
Pros Know
Greg Frohnapfel and John Catalanotto love to tech
others how to paint to teach others how to paint, but they're
also painting professionals. Who better to suggest painting
tips? Here's what they suggest to get professional looking
results!
Preparation,
Preparation, Preparation
-
Prepare
the surface. Fill all cracks, holes and depressions. Prime
the entire area. Unprimed fiber will show through the
paint.
-
Experiment
on sample boards before tackling any project.
-
Plan.
Stop in a corner or at another natural break, such as
a doorway. Complete difficult corners and edges first.
Use small brush for tight areas. Work on one wall, then
paint the opposite wall next to it.
- Mask
areas such as the wall-ceiling seam to keep from double-painting.
Tools
of the trade
- Use
protective gloves for easy cleanup.
- Always
use lint-free rags such as sheets.
- Choose
tones in the same color family. Choose light shades for
a base coat and a color two to three shades deeper for glaze.
- If
your mixing paint with glazing liquid, pick a deep color
than desired because the glazing liquid lightens the paint.
- Select
colors under the same light conditions as your project.
Colors appear more intense when applied to a large area
then they appear on your color strip.
- The
color you apply last will be most dominant, so save the
best color for last.
- When
you're painting a finish that calls for vertical strokes,
use plumb line as a guide
The
Fun Begins
- Work
quickly, glazes become tacky in 10-15 minutes. When using
a negative technique, leave a thick wet edge of unworked
glaze at the end of each section to blend new sections
- Apply
a base coat of any interior satin or semigloss paint. Don't
use flat paint as a first because glazes do not slide easily
over it.
- For
more translucent finish, add more glazing liquid; for a
more opaque look, use more paint. In general, use four parts
glazing liquid to one part paint for sponging, ragging,
and color streaking. Use one part glazing liquid to one
part paint and one part paint conditioner for wood graining
and marbling.
- Mix
enough glaze to finish the job. One gallon of glaze covers
350-400 square feet for negative applications and 600-800
square feet for positive applications.
- When
applying a sponge finish, rotate the position of the sponge
to avoid repetitious marks and to vary the pattern.
- For
a soft finish, use cotton rags; polyester rags leave a crisper
finish.
- Protect
your finish on furniture and floors with polyurethane
Just
Remember
- Start
simple with small project, simple techniques, and easy patterns.
- Don't
overload your rag or sponge with too much glaze. Avoid overworking
the glaze with the brush.
- Stand
back and judge your work.
- Have
a buddy help you apply a negative finish.
- The
more you practice, the better you get. Have fun!
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2008 | Pro Faux Workshops | All Rights
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